The wired remote controller
OK, so now this is where it starts to get interesting!
I figured out all the hardware requirements and purchased the equipment. To start off with this build, I need a controller that is flexible and waterproof. I designed the controller to have at least a IP65 or higher rating.
As for the joy stick, the best fit for my needs was APEM Components Two Axis w/ Sealed Push button, Hall Effect joystick. As soon as I ordered the joy stick I got a call from the retailer for information pertaining to the use and shipment of the joystick. They wanted to verify that it was not being shipped out of the country. I assured them it was for my own personal use, and that I needed that particular one because of the features and the IP67 waterproof rating. Most importantly I need a fail safe tether kill switch. And with all the data lines it will require I need a 16 pin disconnect for it too.
Ah the fun of soldering and heat shrinking 30 small wires to the connectors.
This was even more fun! Crimping all the wires to the joy stick data cable. Just look how small they are! Four 1/16″ tabs to crimp on each wire. Luckily I only had to redo 1 wire.
Now to start wiring up the wired remote controller box. Lots of meters, displays, switches, potentiometer, and the joy stick.
So what the heck is in there?
- 2 axis joystick with push button
- 10k potentiometer
- 3 waterproof push buttons
- 100A digital Amp meter display
- 3-30V digital Volt meter for the batteries
- tethered kill switch
- 2 wire 128×64 LCD display (0.9″ in picture, 1.28″ in final build)
This is what it will look like. Quickly hooked it up and tested the controller to verify everything was wired correctly and working.
Even the 128×64 LCD display is working. Going to use this for all the menu options, controllable by the 3 buttons on the side of the controller.